One of the privileges of working with A-list clients is that they, like my husband and myself, enjoy intriguing food and wine experiences. Not every dish has to be complicated, nor does every bottle of wine require a pedigreed label. But the flavors and fragrances need to create a memory. As such, it was a thrill to be invited to dinner at The Jules Verne Restaurant, one of the restaurants in famed chef Alain Ducasse's coterie of restaurants. After all, our own president and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Obama, declined dinner at the presidential home of his French counterpart in order to share an intimate dining experience atop this quintessential Parisian monument.
Gaining access to the Eiffel Tower is in itself a difficult task. Long lines exist even for those planners who long ago bought tickets for entry at a specific time and day. Not so for the lucky reservation-holders to the JV, for they have their own private entrance in the South pier of the Tower. At the door, one presents proof of a reservation and is "marked off" the list on the IPad of the greeter. Next, one submits one's purse and jackets for security clearance while the person him/herself walks through the metal detector, much like clearing security at the airport. The Tower is often a target of bombing attempts, so I didn't mind the security efforts at all. After security clearance, six lucky people board the glass-sided elevator that whisks its riders more than 400 feet (actually, 125 meters) up the side of the mighty Tower. The ride is slow enough to get up-close and personal with the rivets and beams that make up the structure.
Stepping out of the elevator, we found a restaurant that is gleaming with granite, marble, polished wood, and floor-to-ceiling windows. The tables are arranged to afford every diner, even those not immediately adjacent to the window, a glimpse of the view. Our table was perpendicular to the windows, and, though I was not seated window-side, I had a breath-taking view of the sunset over the suburb of Paris they call "Little Manhattan."
While each diner has the option to choose individual dishes to compose his/her meal, our group opted for our table to enjoy the Menu Degustation, including a wine sampling paired with each course. Lest anyone worry about the tolerance of this tiny Southern woman, let me say that the pours were indeed mere sips designed to accompany the small servings of each course.
Our meal began with beautiful cold soup amuse bouche and champagne. (Real Champagne, I discovered, doesn't taste much like the "champagne" we get in the South. Turns out the French keep the good stuff to themselves.) The courses progressed through lobster starters, entrees of fish and then pigeon, followed by a dessert with raspberries, and, finally, chocolates. By the time the chocolate grand finale came, I was very happy I'm not a dessert fan. The food was delicious, a wonderful sidebar to the gorgeous view. The service was genial, just the right amount of personal banter between servers and patrons. Its tempo was appropriately measured, never too fast nor too slow. Very professional.
One interesting facet of the restaurant itself is the ingenious design of the restrooms. I felt like I was in one of Jules Verne's novels or a Star Trek set when I waved my hand over the beam to open the door. The room was almost entirely encased in black marble that sparkled. It gave me the feeling of being in a pod hurtling through the depths of darkest space amid twinkling stars and planets.
Now, for the big question -- would I return to the Jules Verne on a future trip? Absolutely, IF I was an invited guest. If I was on my own nickel (or Euro), probably not. The meal was very good, but nothing was so good it made my eyes roll back in my head. As my week in Paris progressed, I would have dishes that indeed made my tastebuds dance a tango and at a significantly lower cost. However, nowhere else in Paris could you have the combination of such good food and luxurious service with such a breath-taking view. I'm privileged to have enjoyed the experience once in my life. But, it was an expensive experience, and I'm very grateful to my gracious hosts.
If I'm ever back in the City of Light, I think I'll take a picnic up to Montmartre and watch the sunset over Paris from up there. Less cost, less pampering, but the same gorgeous view, only that one includes the Eiffel Tower.
Thanks for sharing your French food experience. You should definitely visit Montmartre ... There, the view is superb :)
Cathy
Posted by: French online | September 06, 2011 at 05:27 PM